Yard drainage and grading keep water moving away from your home, protect your foundation, and make outdoor spaces usable after rain. Use Landscape Atlas to find local yard drainage contractors and grading services near you, compare options, and contact companies that fit your project. Whether you need a French drain, swales, or a full regrading, you can browse providers and reach out directly.

"Yard drainage" is the system of slopes, pipes, basins, and soil that directs stormwater away from structures and off low spots. "Grading" is the earthwork that shapes your property-the subtle rises and falls that keep water from pooling where it shouldn't.

A yard drainage and grading contractor typically offers:

• Site assessments to map how water currently flows.
• Regrading to establish proper slope away from the house and across the yard.
• Installation of underground and surface drains, like French drains and channel drains.
• Downspout extensions, sump discharge lines, and dry wells.
• Erosion control and soil stabilization on slopes.
• Restoration work, such as new topsoil, seed, sod, or hardscape patching.

When done correctly, the result is a yard that drains quickly, a foundation that stays dry, and landscaping that lasts.

Why proper drainage and grading matter

Water is powerful. Left alone, it can undermine footings, saturate basements, and ruin lawns. Good drainage and grading help you:

• Protect your foundation and slab by moving water away from walls.
• Prevent standing water that attracts mosquitoes and damages turf.
• Reduce erosion that can wash out mulch beds and pathways.
• Extend the life of patios, driveways, and retaining walls.
• Keep play areas and lawn usable sooner after storms.

A simple rule of thumb: the ground should slope away from your home at least 5% for the first 10 feet-that's about a 6-inch drop. Across open lawn and toward approved discharge points, many contractors aim for a gentle 1-2% slope to keep water moving without causing ruts.

Common drainage solutions and key components

There isn't one best fix for every yard. The right solution depends on soil type, elevation, runoff from neighboring lots, and where your property can legally discharge stormwater. Common approaches include:

• Surface regrading

  • Re-shaping the topsoil to create continuous, subtle slopes.
  • Establishing swales-shallow, grassed channels that carry water during rains.

• French drains

  • Perforated pipe installed in a gravel trench, typically wrapped in geotextile fabric.
  • Captures groundwater and redirects it to a safe outlet.

• Catch basins and solid drain lines

  • Inlets placed in low spots, connected to solid PVC or HDPE pipe to move water to daylight, a dry well, or a storm tie-in where allowed.

• Channel or trench drains

  • Linear surface drains with grates, often used across driveways, at garage doors, or along patios.

• Downspout and sump pump discharge extensions

  • Piping that carries roof and sump water far enough away to prevent recycling it back toward the foundation.

• Dry wells and infiltration systems

  • Underground chambers or gravel pits that temporarily store water and let it soak into the soil, useful where daylighting isn't possible.

Key components you'll hear about:

• Pipe types: rigid PVC (often SDR-35 or Schedule 40) vs. corrugated. Rigid pipe maintains slope and is easier to clean; corrugated can curve around obstacles.
• Geotextile fabric: keeps soil out of gravel and pipe in French drains.
• Cleanouts: vertical access points for maintenance and flushing.
• Outlets: "daylight" terminations on a slope, pop-up emitters in lawn areas, or approved storm connections.
• Erosion control: turf reinforcement mats, straw wattles, and riprap at outlets to prevent washouts.

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Signs you might need drainage or grading help

If you notice any of these, it's worth getting a site assessment:

• Water pooling for more than 24-48 hours after rain.
• Soggy lawn, mower ruts, or moss spreading across shady low spots.
• Basement dampness, efflorescence on foundation walls, or musty odors.
• Downspouts that dump water beside the house, or mulch washing out after storms.
• Soil settling along the foundation or patio edges.
• Erosion streaks on slopes or bare patches that never hold grass.
• Freeze-thaw heaving under pavers or cracking concrete due to saturated subgrade.

How to choose a yard drainage or grading contractor

You want someone who understands water, soils, and local rules-not just a general landscaper with a shovel. As you browse providers on Landscape Atlas, consider:

• Relevant experience
  • Ask for projects similar to yours (e.g., heavy clay yards, hillside lots, or properties with limited discharge options).
• Credentials and insurance
  • Look for properly licensed contractors in your state and general liability/worker's comp coverage. Some municipalities require drainage permits or a civil engineer's plan.
• Diagnostic approach
  • Pros should inspect during or after rain when possible, use levels/lasers to check slopes, and talk about soil type and infiltration.
• Materials and methods
  • Ask about pipe (PVC vs. corrugated), fabric type, gravel size, and cleanout locations.
• Warranty and service
  • Many offer workmanship warranties and a maintenance plan. Clarify what's covered and for how long.
• Communication
  • Good contractors explain trade-offs: French drain vs. regrading, where water will discharge, and how restoration will look.

Note: Landscape Atlas lists independent businesses. Providers are not pre-vetted by our team, and we don't perform any service work. Always verify licensing, insurance, and references before you hire.

Smart ways to compare quotes

Apples-to-apples comparisons prevent surprises. When you collect estimates, line up these details:

• Linear footage and depth of each drain run.
• Pipe type and diameter, fabric spec, and gravel quantity.
• Number and location of catch basins, cleanouts, and outlets.
• Exact regrading areas in square feet and target slopes.
• How downspouts, sump discharge, and gutter capacity are handled.
• Restoration scope: topsoil, seed/sod, bed edging, hardscape repairs.
• Permits, engineering, and utility locates (811) responsibilities.
• Warranty terms and any maintenance visits.
• Total cost, payment schedule, and expected start/finish dates.

Tip: Ask each contractor to mark proposed drain lines and outlet locations on a simple site sketch. It's easier to compare when you can see the differences.

Typical costs and what affects them

Prices vary by region, access, soil, and how much earthwork is needed. These ballpark ranges can help you plan:

• French drain: $25-50 per linear foot installed (includes trenching, gravel, fabric, and perforated pipe). Complex runs with deep trenches or tight access can be higher.
• Catch basins with solid pipe to daylight: $30-70 per linear foot depending on pipe type, number of basins, and restoration.
• Downspout extensions: $150-600 per downspout for buried solid pipe with a pop-up emitter or daylight outlet.
• Dry well or small infiltration system: $1,500-4,000, more for higher-capacity or chambered systems.
• Channel/trench drain across a drive or patio: $900-3,000 depending on length, grate type, and surface material.
• Yard regrading: $1,000-5,000 for modest areas; large or multi-slope reshaping can run $5,000-10,000+.
• Retaining walls (if needed for grade changes): highly variable, often $40-100 per square foot of face.
• Design/engineering or permits (where required): $150-1,500+.

What drives cost up or down:

• Soil and groundwater: heavy clay, high water tables, or poor infiltration need more components.
• Access and obstacles: fences, trees, utilities, tight gates, and hardscapes increase labor.
• Depth and length: deeper trenches and longer runs mean more excavation and restoration.
• Materials: rigid PVC, larger basins, and decorative grates cost more but may perform better and last longer.
• Restoration standards: matching pavers, sod vs. seed, or fine grading for a putting-green finish all add time and materials.

A trustworthy contractor will explain why they recommend a particular approach and how it affects budget and maintenance.

Project timeline: from assessment to finished yard

Every property is different, but most projects follow a similar path:

• Initial conversation and site visit: 30-90 minutes to review problem areas, measure slopes, and discuss options.
• Proposal and plan: 2-7 days for a written estimate with a sketch or plan.
• Permits/utility locates: 1-2 weeks if permits or HOA approvals are needed; 811 utility marking typically requires a few business days.
• Scheduling: 1-4 weeks depending on season and weather.
• Installation:
  • Small regrading or a short drain run: 1-2 days.
  • Larger systems with multiple components: 2-5 days.
• Restoration and cleanup: same day to a few days, depending on sod/seed or hardscape repairs.
• Establishment: seed germinates in 1-3 weeks during growing season; expect several weeks for the lawn to fully knit in.

Weather can shift schedules-rain delays are common in drainage season. A good crew will protect open trenches and keep you updated.

How to prepare your property and get a smoother install

A little preparation can shorten the timeline and reduce disruption:

• Document the issues
  • Take photos or short videos during rainfall and mark recurring puddles and wet lines.
• Gather site info
  • Plot plan, recent survey, HOA guidelines, and any prior drainage work details.
• Think about discharge options
  • Where can water legally go? Street curb, storm inlet, approved easement, or an on-site dry well.
• Plan for restoration
  • Decide on seed vs. sod, mulch color, or any landscape updates you want to coordinate.
• Clear access
  • Move vehicles, furniture, and hoses; unlock gates; note pet areas and irrigation controls.
• Call out utilities
  • Contractors typically request 811 locates, but you can mention any private lines (irrigation, low-voltage lighting, dog fences).
• Timing
  • If you're planning a patio or fence, ask about doing grading and drainage first to protect your investment.

Questions to ask before you hire

Use these to guide your conversations with contractors:

• What's the primary source of my water problem-surface runoff, roof drainage, groundwater, or grading?
• Why this solution over alternatives, and what are the trade-offs?
• Where will the water discharge, and is that allowed by local rules?
• What slope will you set from the house and across the yard?
• Which pipe type and diameter will you use, and why?
• Will the French drain be wrapped in fabric? What gravel size will you use?
• Where are the cleanouts and catch basins located for future maintenance?
• How will you protect existing trees, roots, and irrigation?
• What restoration is included, and how will you match my lawn or hardscape?
• What is the warranty, and do you offer maintenance or jetting if lines clog later?
• Can I see photos and references from similar projects?

As you evaluate the answers, focus on clarity and specifics. A clear plan-with slopes, materials, and discharge points spelled out-usually performs better and avoids change orders.

What to expect after installation

Even excellent drainage won't make every storm invisible. Keep these realities in mind:

• During very heavy downpours, water will still flow across the lawn and swales-by design.
• Seeded areas can take a few weeks to stabilize; some settling is normal and may need touch-ups.
• Keep drain grates clear of leaves and mulch, and check outlets after storms.
• Schedule periodic inspections, especially after a season change or a major storm.

A small amount of maintenance keeps your system working and preserves the investment you made in grading and landscaping.

You're just a few clicks away from a drier, more usable yard. Explore yard drainage contractors and grading services on Landscape Atlas, compare options, and contact the pros who fit your project with confidence.

Frequently asked questions